New deck construction in Duluth
A deck sized for how you'll use it, set on footings deep enough that Duluth's frost can't push it around.
On a Duluth deck, the work that matters most is the part you won't see once it's done: five-foot footings, posts and beams, bracing on a tall deck, the ledger and the hardware that holds the deck to the house. Boards and guards get the attention, but they're the easiest pieces to replace later. Pick a builder who talks about the frame first.
What goes into a new deck here?
- Footings to 60 inches. The City of Duluth's deck packet calls for footing bottoms at least 60 inches below grade, with a belled or flat base and an inspection before concrete goes in. The inspector looks for the right diameter and depth and no standing water in the hole.
- Piers and posts. Piers carry at least one vertical rebar, and posts sit on a post base with an anchor bolt. If the post isn't rated for ground contact, the pier has to stand at least 6 inches above grade.
- A ledger bolted and flashed. Duluth requires at least a 2x8 ledger, half-inch lag screws or through-bolts with washers, and corrosion-resistant flashing. Decks can't hang on brick veneer; those houses get a freestanding deck.
- Lateral load connections. The city wants at least two hold-down connections tying the deck to the house so it can't pull away sideways.
- Joists and beams for the span. The packet's span tables assume a 40 psf live load and 10 psf dead load.
- Inspections. Typically footings, framing and final, with the approved plans on site each time.
Building on a slope
Many Duluth lots fall away toward the lake, so the back of the house is a story or two higher than the yard. Tall decks need heavier posts and bracing; past 6 feet above grade, Duluth calls for diagonal or corner bracing, and past 14 feet the deck needs a full design from a Minnesota licensed structural engineer. A multi-level deck over 120 square feet per level, or with more than 10 feet of vertical distance, also needs an engineer. Ask early whether your plan crosses one of those lines.
Materials
| Material | Typical use | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|
| Treated pine | Framing on nearly every deck; budget decking | Fasteners must be hot-dip galvanized, stainless, silicon bronze or copper |
| Cedar | Decking and trim with a natural look | Softer surface; needs a finish; framing still treated |
| Composite / PVC | Low upkeep, hard-to-reach tall decks | See composite decks |
What to think about before the visit
- How many people you want to seat, and whether a grill or hot tub will go on it
- Which way the deck faces, and whether you want to see the lake, the harbor or the woods
- Where the stairs should come down on a sloped yard
- Whether you might add a roof later, so footings can be sized for it now
What affects the price?
- Height above grade, bracing and any engineering
- Number of footings, levels and stair runs
- Decking and railing material
- Tearing off an old deck, access for digging on a steep lot, and permit work
The builder prices the job after seeing the site, measuring, and going over materials and layout with you. We don't quote prices, and a number given over the phone before anyone has looked at the slope, the house wall and the footing locations is only a guess.
Where we connect you with help
Common questions
How deep are deck footings in Duluth?
The city's deck rules call for footing bottoms at least 60 inches below grade, and the hole is inspected before concrete is poured.
Does a tall deck need an engineer in Duluth?
The city's deck packet requires a full design by a Minnesota licensed structural engineer for decks more than 14 feet above grade, and bracing for decks over 6 feet.
Related services
More background: Duluth deck guide.
A deck that lurched after the thaw, or one you've been planning all winter?
Call the number above and we'll connect you with a deck builder who works on your side of the hill.